Monday, January 31, 2011

Woman’s Influence in a Buyers Market

There have been numerous studies done into who buys new homes, what they want and why they buy.  One thing was discovered, when builders make their homes more appealing to women, their sales skyrocket.  Women are the sole or primary decision makers, in 93% of all new home purchases.  So connecting with women should be our primary objective.  We need to make sure we appeal to their needs. Builders need to be aware what certain amenities in their homes that would get the women to say “Wow, I can’t even imagine building my home without having that.”  That is our philosophy  at Homestead Oak we cater to what women want.  We have geared our interior design specifically with women in mind.  After all you are coming to buy your dream home, let us turn that dream into a reality. 

As part of the research which focused on the female homebuyer, there are a few items within the study that come to the forefront in importance to you:



Front Entrance


When we look at designs, one of the first things that we look at is the fact that the entrance into the home from the garage has become our primary entrance into the home.  We no longer use the front door unless we are entertaining. 

Rear Foyer


The rear foyer has become a very important part of the home.  Some of the things this room needs to have is a place for keys, a place to sort mail, a place to recharge all of our electronics…we call it a drop zone.  It has become a very important feature as opposed to the traditional coat closet.

Moms prefer lockers because the kids know how to use them and if the kids are going to go out in the morning on their way to school, their last stop is by their locker.  This is where their jacket, their books and their backpacks are; everything they need for school that day.

Garages


Women do not prefer side entrances to the garages.  The practicality of a front-load garage, pulling the car straight in, backing the car straight out is definitely preferable to having to make that tight turn to get the car into the garage and then having the tight radius backing out of the garage. 





Kitchens


The kitchen is often the primary socializing space.  Women want a kitchen that is very accommodating, very easy to have it look presentable.  Having bigger and bigger pantries or even a food-prep pantry that might have its own sink and dishwasher so that messes can be closed off from the rest of the kitchen. 

The kitchens need to be open to the living space, the primary entertaining area.  Many of today’s buyers have realized the practicality of doing away with a formal dining room and just having one larger eating space. 

Size & Space


Adding these larger spaces does not have to mean that consumers have to build a larger home.  Usually it’s a trade off.  You are not going to gain some of the amenities, such as a nicer foyer entrance into the home, without having traded the space off from somewhere else.  Consumers like flex space that could be a den/study/home office or a dining room or even it could be a guest bedroom.  We never designed a home that had too much storage space.  So, it’s got to be good, usable storage and it’s got to be where she needs it. 

Women look at the flexibility of design and whether or not the design is going to meet not only their needs today, but their needs three, five or seven years into the future. 

Friday, January 28, 2011

Sealing Ducts

In houses with forced-air heating and cooling systems, ducts are used to distribute conditioned air throughout the house. In a typical house, however, about 20 percent of the air that moves through the duct system is lost due to leaks and poorly sealed connections. The result is higher utility bills and difficulty keeping the house comfortable, no matter how the thermostat is set.

Because some ducts are concealed in walls and between floors, repairing them can be difficult. However, exposed ducts in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and garages can be repaired by sealing the leaks with duct sealant (also called duct mastic). In addition, insulating ducts that run through spaces that get hot in summer or cold in winter (like attics, garages, or crawlspaces) can save significant energy.

Additionally, if you are replacing your forced-air heating and cooling equipment, make sure your contractor installs the new system according to ENERGY STAR quality installation guidelines. A quality installation will include a thorough inspection of your duct system, including proper sealing and balancing of ductwork, to help ensure that your new system delivers the most comfort and efficiency.

Thursday, January 27, 2011

How to Sell Your Home in a Lousy Market

You must be crazy if you’re thinking about selling your home right now! At least that is sentiment of some homeowners who see potential job loss, plunging home values and an uncertain economy as reasons why people should stay put. However, life isn’t always so cut and dry for everyone including those homeowners who aren’t looking to sell in order to escape foreclosure.

If you’re desiring to sell your home, then there are some things you must keep in mind before putting your home on the market:

If youre planning to sell your home, will an abundance of nearby foreclosures affect your selling price? Yes, it could.
If you're planning to sell your home, will an abundance of nearby foreclosures affect your selling price? Yes, it could.

Research Thoroughly – The home you paid $159,000 for more then ten years ago could have sold for as high as $298,000 two years ago. Today, home values have plunged in many markets which means you could be trying to market a house worth a hundred grand less than its peak worth. Find out what comparable homes in your area are selling for by visiting sites like Trulia.com and Zillow.com which track the market. If you have a friend in the real estate business, ask for the most recent comp for your area.

Plan Accordingly – Now that you know what your home would likely fetch in this market, is that a price that you can live with? If not, consider not selling your home right now. Where buyers have been going through sticker shock for most of the last two decades, that same shock is being felt by sellers who realize that inflated home prices are now a thing of the past.

Think Wisely – One important factor to consider before putting your home up for sale: are you competing against foreclosures? If so, you’ll have a tough time selling your home at the price that you think it should fetch in this market. Visit RealtyTrac.com to see how many homes in your area are under foreclosure. If one or two, you may be okay. If there are many more than you’ll have a tough time competing against “fire sale” prices.

Choose Smartly – How will you market your home? Will you be using the services of a real estate (R/E) agent? If so, what will the R/E fee be? If choosing For Sale By Owner (FSBO) will you be able to market your home accordingly? Being that this is a buyer’s market, expect buyers to want to see your home at a moment’s notice – will you be available to show it?

Market Aggressively – In many housing markets, you have just one or two weeks to find a buyer before your home is considered stale – on the market too long. This means that you will need to aggressively market your home, using both internet and print methodologies to get the word our. If possible, price your home slightly below the prevailing market rate and make sure that no updates are needed. Expect buyers to want incentives to buy your home, perhaps a lower price or payment of their closing costs. Know your rock bottom price before you get started to see just how much room you have to negotiate.

End Quickly – One advantage of selling FSBO is that you can quickly gauge the market. If you can take a week off from work to market your home, you may be in a better frame of mind to negotiate a price that is acceptable to both parties. In addition, you won’t have to leave your home languishing on the market for months if it is quickly apparent that you won’t be able to sell. With a Real Estate firm handling your sale, you may have to keep it listed for up to six months.

Of course, if you have the flexibility as to whether your home must be sold now or not, then one important area of tension has been removed. You can always try your luck six months later especially if foreclosed inventory shrinks while demand increases.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

AN INTRODUCTION TO YOUR CONSTRUCTION LOAN

This is very informative and should answer many questions for you from the loan process all the way thru the completion of construction on your new home.  



         OBTAINING A CONSTRUCTION LOAN when ob

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

When can I lock in my interest rate?
You are unable to lock in your 30 year fixed interest rate until your loan application is approved by an Underwriter.  At that time you will be called to lock in your interest rate.  The rate notated in the paperwork is merely an estimate until that time.  Once locked – the construction will need completed and the loan modified before the interest rate lock expiration date (which is determined and set when we lock in your rate).  Lock periods can be either 180 days, 240 days or 270 days with rates adjusting slightly for the longer periods.  If construction or modification exceeds your rate lock period, penalties may occur.  

Are the monthly taxes & insurance estimates in the loan paperwork correct? 
No. We have to "estimate" what these items will be though we do not know the real answer at this time.  Do not misinterpret these estimations with what you will have to pay in your monthly payment.   When your insurance agent and your County Treasurer give us the correct premiums, we will then change the estimates to the correct figures for your mortgage payment.

If I make changes to the price with my builder, can I finance these changes?
Absolutely – providing the loan has not closed and providing you can still qualify for the loan amount if the price has increased.  Any changes made after your loan is closed will need paid directly to the builder as the loan cannot be amended once the closing has occurred.

How long will it take to get my loan closed?
You should have your loan ready to close in less than 60 days from the date we receive the application paperwork and the requested personal documents.   There are unknowns that may come up such as delays in getting the purchase price finalized or appraisal issues which could affect this timetable.  Faster closing times can and have been met.   If speed is a concern for you - your complete cooperation will is greatly appreciated.

What type of homeowners insurance do I need?
Your homeowners’ policy will need to include “Builder’s Risk” coverage (unless your builder happens to provide this for you) and the premium must be paid a full year in advance.  It is also required that you obtain coverage for AT LEAST the amount to satisfy your mortgage amount in the event of a loss.  By the way - Huntington Insurance is aware & can accommodate this criteria if you choose them to provide your insurance for you.

Why is the FHA MIP (Mortgage Insurance Premium)  listed on the Good Faith Estimate?
In January 2010, the government mandated a standardized Good Faith document that all mortgage lenders must use.  The FHA financed insurance premium (which is added to your base loan amount to create the final loan amount) is shown as part of the loan closing costs thus creating a much larger cost amount on this form.  The total IS NOT solely what you are paying in costs for this loan as much of this total is the financed FHA premium.  This financed premium amount is listed on page 2, section 3 called “Mtg. Ins. /RD Guar. Fee”. 

Can I ever drop the MIP from my payment?  The monthly MIP may be dropped when your loan balance is paid down to 78% of the initial sales price or the initial appraised value, whichever was lower, providing you have the loan for at least 5 years.   In addition – if you sell the home or refinance the loan, a pro rated portion of the financed amount is also refunded back to you.  This is better explained on the attached forms titled “Important Notice to Homebuyers (page 2 of 2) and the“FHA Homeowners Fact Sheet”.

What do I have to pay during the construction? 
During the construction of your home, you will be billed each month for the interest due on the construction draws disbursed to your builder.  This will also include the advance to purchase or payoff your land (if applicable).  You will not pay the monthly FHA insurance, your homeowners insurance or your property taxes during construction - just the interest due on the draws.  It is important that you understand that you will have an interest payment due to us each month during construction which will increase each month as your home progresses thru construction.  

What happens once my construction project is completed?
Shortly after the completion of your construction, you will be contacted to set up the “modification” of your loan to convert from the construction phase to the permanent, 30 year payback phase.   At this time, you will need to pay to set up your escrow account for the taxes and insurance as nothing has been paid by you during the months under construction.  In addition, we will collect interest from the date of modification until the end of the month.  For example, if construction is completed on October 5th, modification will not occur until November 1st (all FHA modifications are on the 1st day of the month after construction), you would prepay the interest for the remainder of October and your first mortgage payment would then be due December 1st.
The following items are required to be completed to be able to modify your FHA construction loan into the permanent mortgage.
  • Stairs from all outside doorways, service walkway (walkway from drive to front door)
  • final grade  & seed and straw (winter weather delays may occur.  Check for details)

Do I need any inspections in order for Modification to occur? (FHA loans only)
That depends.  If your county issues a Building Permit & Certificate of Occupancy, you DO NOT NEED a site inspection UNLESS you are building a manufactured / doublewide home.  The respective fees have been included in your closing cost estimation.  If your county doesn’t issue the above, an FHA certified inspector will need to conduct an inspection of your home’s construction.  Also - If you have a well and/or a septic system – you will need a certified well/water test and/or a septic inspection upon completion of construction.   These tests need ordered and paid for by you and your loan cannot modify to the permanent mortgage until we receive them and your systems get a passing grade.  The approx. cost for each test is $150 and we can help you find a company to perform these tests in your area.  Your first inquiry should be your County Health Department as they may complete these tests at a nominal fee or even free or charge.

Can I apply any unused construction money back on my loan?
Yes but not until after modification has occurred.  FHA requires us to modify your loan at the exact same loan amount as when the loan initially closed.   If you want your payment reduced to reflect the lesser amount borrowed (called “recasting”), we can do this for you.  There is a modest fee for the recast as the Note will need amended.  In addition – you can also apply a lump sum principal payment any time you wish, as often as you wish and we can also do this recast for you if you want the payment reduced to reflect the new lowered loan amount.  Please note – only AFTER modification has taken place can we amend your loan amount and recast your mortgage payment.  It is uncommon for bank’s to offer their customers a “recast” feature and we are proud to be able to do so for you.

Submitted by:

Tony Ciccarelli
Mortgage Loan Consultant
The Huntington National Bank

Friday, January 21, 2011

Air Seal and Insulate with ENERGY STAR

Sealing and insulating the "envelope" or "shell" of your home — its outer walls, ceiling, windows, doors, and floors — is often the most cost effective way to improve energy efficiency and comfort. ENERGY STAR estimates that a knowledgeable homeowner or skilled contractor can save up to 20% on heating and cooling costs (or up to 10% on their total annual energy bill  by sealing and insulating.

To Seal and Insulate with ENERGY STAR:

·                       Seal air leaks throughout the home to stop drafts,
·                       Add insulation to block heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer,
·                       Choose ENERGY STAR qualified windows when replacing windows.



If your attic is accessible and you like home improvement projects, you can Do-It-Yourself with help from our DIY Guide to Sealing and Insulating with ENERGY STAR. The Guide offers step-by-step instructions for sealing common air leaks and adding insulation to the attic.
You can also hire a contractor who will use special diagnostic tools to pinpoint and seal the hidden air leaks in your home. A Home Energy Rater can help you find contractors that offer air sealing services in your area.

Sealing Leaks

Many air leaks and drafts are easy to find because they are easy to feel — like those around windows and doors. But holes hidden in attics, basements, and crawlspaces are usually bigger problems. Sealing these leaks with caulk, spray foam, or weather stripping will have a great impact on improving your comfort and reducing utility bills. Click on the house diagram to see common air leak locations that you should aim to seal.
Homeowners are often concerned about sealing their house too tightly; however, this is very unlikely in most older homes. A certain amount of fresh air is needed for good indoor air quality and there are specifications that set the minimum amount of fresh air needed for a house. If you are concerned about how tight your home is, hire a contractor, such as a Home Energy Rater, who can use diagnostic tools to measure your home's actual leakage. If your home is too tight, a fresh air ventilation system may be recommended.
After any home sealing project, have a heating and cooling technician check to make sure that your combustion appliances (gas- or oil-fired furnace, water heater, and dryer) are venting properly. For additional information on Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) issues related to homes, such as combustion safety, visit EPA’s Indoor Air Quality Web site.

Adding Insulation

Insulation keeps your home warm in the winter and cool in the summer. There are several common types of insulation — fiberglass (in both batt and blown forms), cellulose, rigid foam board, and spray foam. Reflective insulation (or radiant barrier) is another insulating product which can help save energy in hot, sunny climates.
When correctly installed with air sealing, each type of insulation can deliver comfort and lower energy bills during the hottest and coldest times of the year.

·          Insulation performance is measured by R-value — its ability to resist heat flow. Higher R-values mean more insulating power. Different R-values are recommended for walls, attics, basements and crawlspaces, depending on your area of the country. Insulation works best when air is not moving through or around it. So it is very important to seal air leaks before installing insulation to ensure that you get the best performance from the insulation.

To get the biggest savings, the easiest place to add insulation is usually in the attic. A quick way to see if you need more insulation is to look across your uncovered attic floor. If your insulation is level with or below the attic floor joists, you probably need to add more insulation. The recommended insulation level for most attics is R-38 (or about 12–15 inches, depending on the insulation type). In the coldest climates, insulating up to R-49 is recommended.

For more information visit http://www.homesteadoak.com/  or 
Like Us on facebook  www.connect.facebook.com/people/Homestead-Oak/100001582626419

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

KCMA CERTIFIED CABINETS

Commodore Homes of PA's Classic Craft Cabinetry is KCMA Approved!

1. What does that mean?

This means that Classic Craft Cabinetry built at Commodore Homes of PA
meet the same rigorous KCMA standards as all other leading cabinet manufacturers.
These cabinets go through a series of tests to measure structural integrity of the
cabinets. Cabinet doors and drawers are tested, and even the finish is tested before
KCMA will certify our cabinets.











2.What is KCMA? 

Kitchen Cabinet Manufactures Association (KCMA) is a nationally
recognized voluntary testing and certification program for cabinets.
KCMA is a certified Performance & Construction Standard for
Kitchen and Vanity Cabinets.

3. Who is eligible to have their cabinets certified?

KCMA Certification Program is open to any cabinet manufacturer.

4. What are the requirements to earn KCMA certification?

a. All wall cabinets must be fully enclosed with backs, bottoms, sides and
tops. All base cabinets must be fully enclosed with backs, bottoms and
b. All cabinets designed to rest on the floor must be provided with a toe
space at least 2" deep and 3" high.

c. All utility cabinets must meet the same construction requirements as
wall cabinets.

d. Doors must be properly aligned with cabinet and close without excessive binding or looseness.

e. All materials must ensure rigidity in compliance with performance standards.

f. Face frames must provide rigid construction.

g. All wood parts must be dried to a moisture content of 10% or less at the time of falorication.

h. All exterior exposed surfaces and edges of end panels and edges of back panels, shall be free of saw marks and other imperfections and shall be filled and sanded, edge banded, or otherwise finished.

i. All exterior exposed parts of cabinets must have nails and staples set and holes filled.  All exposed surfaces shall be free of saw marks and poor workmanship, and shall be covered with a laminate material or have a minimum of one coat of clear or pigmented finish.

k. Exposed cabinet hardware must comply with the Builders Hardware
Manufactu ring Association finishing standards.

5. What are the 5 structural tests for KCMA?

a. Alt shelves and bottoms are loaded with 15lbs. per square foot, and loading is maintained for seven days to ensure that there is no excessive deflection and no visible sign of joint separation or failure of any part of
the cabinets or the mounting system.

b. Mounting wall cabinets are gradually loaded to 500lbs. without any visible sign of failure in the cabinet or the mounting system.

c. 250lbs. is applied against the inside of cabinets styles to test the strength of base front joints.

d. A 3lb. steel ball is dropped 6" above the surface to insure the shelves, bottoms and drawer bottoms will withstand the dropping of cans and other items. After the test the drawer must not be damaged and must
still operate as before and have no visible sign of joint separation or failure to any part of the cabinet mounting system.

e. A 101b. sandbag is used to strike the center of a closed cabinet door and repeated with the door opened to test the ability of cabinet doors and mounting hardware. The door must operate as befqre the test and
show no damage or sign of separation or failure in the system.  

6. What drawer tests are performed?

To test the ability of drawers and drawer mechanisms with loading during normal use, drawers are loaded to 15lbs. per square foot and operated through 25,000 cycles. The drawer must remain operable with
no failure in any part of the drawer or operating system. To test the ability of the drawer-front assembly to withstand the impact of closing the drawer under normal use, a 3lb. weight is dropped against the drawer assembly. After 10 drops, there must be no evidence of looseness or structural damage to the drawer-front

7. What door operation tests are performed?

a. To test the ability of doors/hinges and means of attachment, 65lbs. is applied to the door. The weighted door is slowly operated through L0cylces. The door must remain weighted for 10 minutes, after which the
door and hinges must show no signs of damage, and connections must show no signs of looseness.

b. To test the ability of doors, door hinges and attachments devices, the doors are opened and closed through a full 90 degree swing for 25,000 cycles. After testing the door must be operable, the door hinges must hold the door in a closed position and show no sign of damage. The attachment devices between the cabinet/hinges and the door/hinges must show no sign of looseness.

8. What are the tests performed to the cabinet finish?

a. To test the ability of the finish to withstand high heat, a cabinet door isplaced into a hotbox at t2A degrees,and 70% humidity f or 24 hours. After the test the finish must show no discoloration and no evidence of blistering, checks, or other film failures.
b. Drawers Extend for Maximum Access
c. 3/4" Adjustable Half-Shelf in Base Kitchen Cabinets
d. Recessed Toe-Kick for Ease of Working at Cabinet






assembly.



sides.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Home Decor Hand Crafted by Local Artesans for Sale

Did you know we currently offer many home decor items for sale throughout our model homes brought to you by local artisans?  We started this program this past Fall and since it's inception it has been very well received.



Some of the items we currently offer include framed photos, lighted pictures, candles, aprons, quilts, wooden signs etc. all hand crafted by local artisans.  Like what you see? Every piece of our home decor items, including furniture is for sale. 



Come spend a leisure shopping day strolling through admiring our beautiful model homes and perhaps take home that perfect birthday gift for someone special.  Then take time to visit and savor our many local area restaurants. 



Our model homes are heated for the winter so the visit won't leave you out in the cold. 

Monday, January 17, 2011

Efficient Heating Equipment Part 4: Series 6 Ways a New Home will Cut Your Energy Bills


ENERGY STAR Qualified Heating Equipment
                   Enhances Comfort and Improves Durability

During the winter, homeowners expect their heating systems to keep them warm
without breaking the bank. ENERGY STAR qualified heating equipment can be up to
15 percent more efficient than standard models. ENERGY STAR qualified homes built
in the North typically include right-sized ENERGY STAR qualified heating equipment.

BENEFITS OF ENERGY STAR QUALIFIED HEATING SYSTEMS

energy than standard systems. When properly installed, these heating systems can save
money on utility bills.

Lower Utility Bills. ENERGY STAR qualified heating systems are designed to use less
are designed to reduce the risk of backdrafting dangerous carbon monoxide exhaust into
the home.

Less Risk of Air Quality Problems. ENERGY STAR qualified gas-fired boilers and furnaces
employ advanced technologies and high quality components, often resulting in longer
equipment life and longer warranties compared to standard models.

Increased Durability. Most ENERGY STAR qualified boilers, furnaces, and heat pumps
HOW BOILERS, FURNACES, AND HEAT PUMPS WORK

Builders of ENERGY STAR qualified homes choose energy-efficient heating systems based
on available fuel choices and regional preferences. Common heating systems include boilers,
furnaces, and heat pumps. Here’s how they work:

units, baseboard convection units, or radiant loops. ENERGY STAR qualified boilers use
about 5 percent less energy than standard boilers.

Boilers heat water that is distributed in pipes throughout the home to radiators, fan coil
qualified oil and gas furnaces have annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) ratings of
83 percent or higher, making them up to 15 percent more efficient than standard
models.

Furnaces heat air and distribute it throughout the home in a duct system. ENERGY STAR
heat pump functions exactly like an air conditioner—heat is extracted from inside the
home and transferred to the outside. The resulting cooled and dehumidified air is
distributed throughout the home in a duct system. In the winter, heat pumps operate in
reverse—by extracting heat from the air, the ground, or a source of water outdoors and
transferring it to the indoor air, which is distributed throughout the home in a duct system.

Heat Pumps use a refrigeration cycle to both heat and cool the home. In the summer, a
ASK ABOUT INSTALLATION

Proper installation of heating equipment can have a big impact on performance. Look for
heating equipment to be installed according to best practices, including:

Conditioning Contractors of America [ACCA]) should be used to determine heating
requirements. These calculations are more accurate than rule-of-thumb estimating (for
example, square footage ratios). In addition, ACCA Manual D should be used to properly
size the duct system.

Proper System Sizing. Load calculations (from Manual J and Manual S of the Air
inside the conditioned space of the home (as opposed to an unconditioned garage or
attic) to minimize exposure to harsh conditions (e.g., hot, humid, dusty attics in
summer). Outdoor compressors should be positioned to minimize direct sun exposure
while allowing plenty of room for air to flow around the units.
Proper Equipment Placement. The best location for air-handling equipment and ducts is
necessary to improve operating efficiency, comfort, and indoor air quality.

Correct Airflow. The airflow and duct leakage should be tested and airflow adjusted as
A BETTER FUTURE

ENERGY STAR is a voluntary partnership between the government and more than 9,000
organizations, including more than 3,500 of the nation’s home builders. Together with
home buyers and their families, we are working to achieve a common goal—protecting the
environment for future generations by changing to more energy-efficient practices andproducts today.

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Virtues of Owning a Smaller Home Continued

A "smaller" home is cheaper to decorate.  Do we really need a breakfast nook and a full-sized dining room?   How about a living room and a den?  Every room you eliminate is one less room to heat, cool, and decorate. 

A "smaller" home forces us to have a "home".  When there's four people in a 4,500 square foot monster, each of them in a separate part of the house "doing their own thing" there isn't any family togetherness I know.  My home is no where near that size but the four of us seem to rarely be in the same room together. 

A "smaller" home gives you peace of mind.  Half the size could mean half the price - and half the payment.  If you loose your job, wouldn't a 50 percent smaller house payment be nice?

A "smaller" home saves on maintenance and cleaning.  They have fewer windows to wash, fewer gutters to clean, less semi-annual maintenance to do, and smaller roof to one day replace.  Your broom, mop and vacuum cleaner will last longer.  You might not need that maid anymore.

Friday, January 14, 2011

Part Three: "Tight Construction and Ducts" in the Series "6 Ways a New Home will Cut Your Energy Bill"

Efficient Duct Systems
Optimize the Home’s Comfort Delivery System
To create a comfortable home, an efficient duct system is a must. Ducts—known
collectively as the air distribution system—carry air from the central heater or air
conditioner to each part of the home and back again. In a typical house about
20 percent of the air that moves through the duct system is lost due to leaks, holes,
and poorly connected ducts. That’s why the duct systems found in ENERGY STAR
qualified homes are third-party tested for tightness and verified to be properly
insulated.

BENEFITS OF EFFICIENT DUCT SYSTEMS

Improved Comfort. When ducts are properly sealed and insulated, they deliver
conditioned air more effectively to all rooms—helping to ensure a more constant
temperature throughout the home.
Lower Utility Bills. The average
homeowner spends more than $600
on space heating and cooling each
year. Tightly sealed and well
insulated ducts found in ENERGY
STAR qualified homes can reduce
annual utility bills by $120 or more.
Improved Indoor Air Quality.
Leaky ducts in attics, unfinished
basements, crawl spaces, and
garages can allow dirt, dust,
moisture, pollen, pests, and fumes
to enter the home. Sealing these ducts
helps improve indoor air quality.
Lower Equipment Costs. When ducts are leaky, the heating and cooling system
has to work harder to condition the home. Duct sealing, along with proper
insulation, allows the installation of a smaller, less costly heating and cooling system.

BUILDING EFFICIENT DUCT SYSTEMS
Techniques and practices that provide an efficient and effective duct system include:

Ducts in Conditioned Spaces.
more efficiently in conditioned air at room
temperature. They do not work as well in
excessively hot or cold attics and crawl
spaces.
Sealed Ducts.
and/or Underwriters Laboratory (UL) 181
approved tapes, such as metal-backed tape, to
seal ducts. These materials more effectively
seal leaks around duct joints and seams than
standard “duct tape.”
Insulated Ducts.
connections can waste 20 percent or more of the air that you pay to heat and cool. To
minimize this energy loss, EPA first recommends installing ducts in conditioned spaces. Where
this is not possible, ducts should be insulated as recommended by the International Energy
Conservation Code (IECC).
Right-Sized Ducts.
Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) Manual J and Manual D calculations. This helps
to ensure that the ducts accommodate the air flow requirements of the heating and cooling
system for efficient distribution of heated or cooled air.

A BETTER FUTURE

ENERGY STAR is a voluntary partnership between the government and more than 9,000
organizations, including more than 3,500 of the nation’s home builders. Together with home
buyers and their families, we are working to achieve a common goal—protecting the
environment for future generations by changing to more energy-efficient practices and
products today.
ENERGY STAR is the government-backed symbol for energy efficiency. It identifies new
homes, buildings, and more than 50 types of products that are energy efficient and offer the
features, quality, and performance that today’s consumers expect. Products that can earn the
ENERGY STAR include windows, heating and cooling equipment, lighting, and appliances. To
learn more about ENERGY STAR, visit www.energystar.gov.
Ducts in ENERGY STAR qualified homes are sized based on the Air
Leaky ducts and poorly sealed
EPA promotes the use of mastic
Ducts operate
Typical Places Where Ducts Leak

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Design Trends for an Emerging Housing Market

We speak with Doug Van Lerberghe, Principal,  Kephart
Buyers are reemerging, but they’re are coming back more cautiously than in the past.  New homes are being built, but they are reflecting a new set of buyer lifestyles and values.
What are the trends in new home design?  What are buyers today willing to invest in – or willing to live without – in their new homes?  We asked Doug Van Lerberghe, a principal at architectural the firm Kephart, to share his observations and insights as what builders and developers should be looking for and including in their new home designs.  Listen to the audio interview to hear Doug’s explanation, or read our highlights in the article below:

Market Trends in Residential Design
One of the trends in single families for sales over the past couple of years is that homes today are about 300 square feet less in size than they were a few years ago. We have noticed over the past year and half is that we are designing more single family homes that are in that 1,350 – 1,900 sq. ft. range. So we as architects are trying to make a tighter home; we’re asking questions as to whether we need to put in those rooms that we have historically always put in.  Certain markets haven’t done formal living rooms for awhile and instead put in a great room. On the east coast they still like their formal living spaces. So, builders need to ask how important a formal dining room is to the end user.

The second trend that we’re seeing is that, since the elections it seems that a lot of developers are out there trying to develop for apartments.  In the past year we’ve seen a strong apartment market, but they were the HUD units because it was guaranteed financing. Now it looks like the private financing is starting to get some legs.  So many people still can’t qualify for that ‘for sale’ home. So it seems we are moving towards the European model of ‘forever renters and never buyers’. It’s not a 100% trend, of course. We are a nation of niches. We have renters and buyers; some are going from one to the other. You can’t put everyone into an age demographic niche.

I do believe that there still are a number of young people that are still going to want the American dream. It’s still going to be desirous for them to buy a home. It’s still going to be perceived as a value and faith in buying will come back.

On the other hand, then, there’s going to be a fraction of the younger ones that won’t want to deal with home ownership and will want to continue to rent. I think we’re going to have a fragmented market.  I think the ‘For Sale’ single family will be the hottest pursuit. I see a slow down in condos for sale for a number of years. There are still a lot of markets in the U.S. that are overbuilt and it’s going to take awhile to get rid of that inventory. Of course there still are niche opportunities where people will build condos or town homes for sale.

I’ve seen a righting of the trends in term of spec levels. Across the country it’s ‘How do you beat the Joneses’? Builder A would put in white granite counter tops to compete against Builder B. That’s drifted to a lot of finishes that were pretty high end across a production level home. I’ve talked to a number of builders and have witnessed that some of those things have taken a step back. There are still a lot of things being offered as options, but it’s not the base offering. Anything that can bring the base price of a home down is being removed as a standard feature and is now an optional feature.

The biggest trends though, from an architects perspective, is how to make a livable home while cutting the square footage and wasted space. For example, if a stairway is placed along the edge of a home, there will be a hallway to connect it to the central parts of the house. If you can centralize it, you can minimize the amount of hallways and distribute that space to the rooms, whatever the square footag is.

Trends in Lifestyle and Technology
Consciousness of our environment is a trend. I’m not seeing necessarily more solar panels, but more consideration and time being put into the home to make it more efficient. There is much more of a desire to minimize monthly expenses. Too, we’re seeing much better furnaces going into the homes. We’re seeing the buyers actually asking and being more environmentally savvy when it comes to the efficiency of the home. That definitely has an impact on the design and the better utilization of spaces.

Aligning with the Current Market
The biggest thing that I’ve seen pick up is that community developers, rather than putting in a huge club house, homes and all those amenities, are instead building closer to existing amenities. Instead of building these things in your community, can you put the site adjacent to them. For example, a health club, golf course or a resort. Rather than building it all yourself and taking on the initial costs, try teaming up with these things around you.

It’s not uncommon that in order to entice some of those buyers, you need to have those amenities available. To build those there day one  is expensive and challenging. The whole concept is to try and team up with existing facilities, memberships and so on that are already out there.